I really like Mae Sot

This morning I immediately left Sukhothai and got on a minibus to Mae Sot.  I could tell I was going to a non-touristy place right away because it was a rickety minibus full of thai people, and no farang.  After getting dropped off at the bus terminal/market I walked to the Green Guest House, which has a very nice garden and a nice lady who runs the place.  I could tell right away that I had found gem #2 of the trip, and realized I would be here longer than a couple days.

The town of Mae Sot is a boarder town with Burma and has a lot of Burmese refugees, the guide book said there were about 150 thousand just in this province alone.  Because of the interesting dynamics of the town it is culturally diverse, with Burmese, Thai, Chinese, and Muslim.  The first question from the guest house owner was if I was a tourist or a volunteer, which shows how many volunteers they have here, or how few tourists.  There were posters around for different volunteer positions showing the need for english teachers and health care probiders.  After talking to the owner for a while I decided that I would spend one day at her kids high school.  She said most people wouldn't do it because if they volunteer they are tired and most other people just come and go.  She said she would talk to the class to see if Friday or Monday would work.  It sounds good because they will do a Thai food teaching thing for me and I'll just talk and be friendly, and it seems like it will be very appreciated.

Another reason I know I will stay longer is that she told me about one hot spring 16 Km to the north of town that people like to visit, and then another one about 40 Km to the south that most people don't visit.  She thought it was funny how excited I was to see hot springs, plus the guide book didn't mention one of them, makes me want to write Lonely Planet about there inadequite coverage of hot springs.  Plus there is an herbal spa in the back of one of the wats in town.  I was sold this place deserves more than a couple days.  If I volunteer on Friday then I may leave after that, but if its Monday then I will probably go to the biggest waterfall in Thailand, which is a good deal south, and then come back for the high school.

For the day I decided to get cheap thai food lunch, then go to the spa, then get some nice italian food at a highly recommended ex-pat resturant at the end of town (I've been waiting to find a good italian place, usually there are tuns because of the ex-pats but this is the first one I've found).  The day went great.  Food was good, then I got a beer at a little place and read a Bangkok Post newspaper I bought (I felt like I needed some news from the world).  Then the spa was great.  It is a bit rustic but all the essentials are there.  The spa is a very hot steam room with a lot of herbal sents in the steam (hotter than the steam room at Banya, and one for girls and one for boys, of course).  Then outside there were lots of benches to chill on, some work out equipment, a place to pour cold water over you, and some herbal tea.  It was a really pleasent experience.  I spent about 2.5 hours there and was the only farang besides one guy who came and left very fast, actually I seemed to stay there longer than anyone.

Last but not least the italian food was great!  Everything I could have expected, perhaps I spent too much but I wanted some good non-thai food (you think you won't ever get tired of thai food but after almost 3 weeks it is a really nice change).  Tomorrow I'm planning on renting a motorbike and seeing the hot springs, then the next day checking out the market (this is suposed to be one of the best markets in Thailand especially for minerals and gems).  

I haven't made any friends here yet and the Dutch girl didn't answer my call, but I like this place so much I don't think I care.  I'm starting to feel the love for solo traveling again because I can randomly choose to stay here for several days and volunteer at the high school, which I did.  So right now I don't know when I'll leave Mae Sot, it may take me longer to get to Pai than I thought it would.  But thats the point of being alone, following my nose and doing what feels right.  I don't think I would feel good about just visiting Mae Sot and not at least helping a little bit, it needs so much help.  Perhaps I will even come back here in the future to volunteer for a longer period of time.  Thats all for now and sorry no pictures for today, I'll try to make up for it in my next post.

I love Hot Springs

My adventure to see the hot springs that are not in the guide book went great. It is hard to explain how much I enjoy hot springs. I feel a connection to the earth and some sort of spiritual connection. My body relaxes and I can feel the stress or pressures of life just fade away. Plus it gets me out into the world and seeing things I wouldn't see otherwize.

I woke up later than expected this morning and I didn't feel great, maybe too many beers with the British girls last night. But I eventually got out of my room and had some breakfast alone because all the friends I had yesterday are gone today. After breakfast, which I had around noon, I rented a motorbike. I figured I would get the manual because its cheaper and since it was my first time ever on a motorbike might as well learn on the cheaper one. It worked out because there is no clutch so its basically like changing the speed on a bike, and I felt more connected with the motorbike.

It was funny at first because it was my first time and the guy I was renting the bike from barely spoke english. I understood what all the peddles and stuff did but when I hit the gas it went faster than I thought. I could see the worry on the guy's face. I just said I needed to practice and went up and down the little streat practicing changing gears. There were some Thai people watching and they would say "gear up", and when I changed the gear they cheered. It may have been my first time but in 5 minutes I figured I was as good as I was going to get so I went off down the road.

After getting gas I was on my way to the hot spring on the highway. I just kept the speed at around 60 kph and was pretty comfortable driving the thing in no time (with a sore butt though). It was about 60 Km down the highway and then another 10 or so on smaller roads. There were good signs telling me where to go, which is how I saw it in the first place, so I wasn't worried about finding it. As I expected when I got there I was the only farang and everyone seemed to notice that.

The hot springs were pretty developed like the other ones but it was maintained on a donation basis. There was a center area (in full sun) with lots of different temp deep smaller pools, and then shallower pools around them. It didn't look like they were ever cleaned though, so at first I thought I might not be able to soak. Then I found another pool near a small man made lake that kids were riding little swan paddleboats on. That was the maintained soaking pool! It was about 103-104 and had umbrellas around for shade, and wooden planks to sit on. The source was next to it in a little raised pool that older thai women were filling up drinking water from. It seemed like a lot of people just came to fill up waters, soak there feet for a few minutes and then leave.

the un-maintained smaller pools in full sun

the maintained pool when I had it to myself

I soaked for a while, and was the only one that completely submerged my body, it was shallow so I had to lay down. Then I would get into the little man made lake. After a little soak, I read, and then soaked again. I couldn't really talk to anyone because they were all thai people that didn't speak english but people just let me do my thing. I saw several groups of people come and go while I was hanging out by the pool. A lot of them seemed like Thai tourists because they would take pictures of there family in the pool.

Eventually I got hungry so I left the pool to look for food and donated 20B. I couldn't find any food there, and I knew the closest town was pretty far away so I decided to leave and not do the night soak. It was a good decision I think because I drove back to Sukhothai during sun set and was a bit cold. When I got to town there was another chinese parade going on. This one was huge, it made the one from yesterday look really small. Also all the buisnesses had little shrines with candles in front of the stores and then the dragon would come up and bow, and these kids would run around with little sticks saying stuff. The nice kid at the guest house I'm at that can speak some english said it was a chinese new year celebration and the shrines were to wish the buisness prosperity, he said the kids were chanting "make money" or something like that. It was a neat specticle to come back to town and see. Plus it showed that I knew how to ride the motorbike because I had to weave though a lot of traffic and not hit anyone in the crowded streets.

After watching the parade I just walked down to the night market (always the cheapest place for food) and had some noodles. Now I am doing this, and am not sure what else I'm going to do. I'm alone again so if I want some company I need to be outgoing and I'm not sure if I feel like it. Plus tomorrow I'm moving on to Mae Sot so it might not be worth it to go through the effort of getting to know another person. It sounds bad when I say that but thats kinda how I feel. It is work to get to know people and if I'm just leaving tomorrow, so the friend I make, I won't even see again, then I might as well just read and go to bed early. I think the Dutch girl will be in Mae Sot tomorrow and I know her number so I can just call her when I get there, so hopefully I'll have a friend tomorrow. Anyway, thats all for now, and so far I have not seen any textiles, just jewelry, but I heard there is local silk somewhere. Peace to all!

In Sukhothai

Yesterday after breakfast and packing up I headed to the bus station to come up to Sukhothai. In the bus terminal first I met a nice Dutch girl that is doing similar things in the next few days and then a Welsh girl and a Scottish girl traveling together. The Dutch girl left on the bus before me and the two from the UK. It was good because since I've been up in Sukhothai I've had a few friends so I didn't have to try to look for people to meet.

The Bus ride was really cold, they had the AC on full blast. I slept a bit and then when I woke up and started focusing on the road to figure out where we were I saw a sign for a hot spring about 60 Km from Sukhothai. So, now I'm planning to stay an extra day and rent a motorbike tomorrow to go check out the springs. They aren't in any books, but the guy here at the guest house knows about them and pulled out a thai book that had them in it. Its very exciting for me to get to see a hot spring that isn't even in the guide books.

After the bus ride I had dinner with the UK girls and then we had some drinks and tried to watch a rugbee game, but the game wasnt' on (the girls were sad about that). Today I had breakfast with the girls and the Dutch girl, then we all went to the historical Sukhothai together. It didn't really seem worth it. People said Sukhothai was better than Ayuthaya but I liked Ayuthaya better. The admission price for the historical Sukhothai site was raised significantly above what the guide book said and it really didn't seem worth the cost. Maybe I've just seen too many wats recently. Once they were trying to charge us 100B to ride over to more ruins we decided not to pay it and just to go back.

riding bikes through the ruins

The coolest parts of the Sukhothai historical park

We got back to the guest house and had some lunch together. The Dutch girl went off to use the computer. Then the UK girls decided also to use a computer, and I read my book and fell asleap. When I woke up I went up to my room and within a few minutes there was some racket on the main streat. I went out to see what it was and there was some sort of parade in the street, where they were blocking it off and big groups of school kid (I assume) were dancing, or playing drums, and there was even a chinese drangon thing. The UK girls aslo came out of there room to watch and it was a cool thing to see. Now I'm doing this and we are all going to out out for some drinks before some dinner.

I think all three of the friends I've been hanging out with today are leaving tomorrow but I have to stay to check out these hot springs. I'm more excited to see them than more Wats. Hopefully it will lead me into a cool adventure, and it will be the first time I try driving a motorbike. Wish me luck!

Chillin in Historical Ayuthaya

The last few days have been nice. I spent the last night in Bangkok hanging out with the Austrailian couple. It was really good because we knew each other well enough to start talking about deeper issues and it was a really constructive conversation. There were some things talked about that really hit home with me and am still thinking about.

Yesterday morning I left Bangkok as soon as I woke up! That experience with the gambling scam attempted to be pulled on me made me want to leave that place. Everyone says that Bangkok Thais are different that the "real" Thais. I took the water taxi down the river and then walked to the train station, and took the train to Ayuthaya. When I got here I just walked over to the river and took the water taxi accross to the city (The city is on an island in the center of rivers). I walked through the day market trying to find the guest house/backpacker area. I eventually found it and acutally took the first guess house I ran into.

The guest house is a little more than I wanted to pay (200B) but it has a nice chill area so I realize I'm paying for the atmosphere and took the room. I didn't do much during the day (I think drinking the few nights before in Bangkok was taking its toll on me). At night I walked over to the night market for dinner and had a nice bowl of soup. After dinner I walked past some of the illuminated Wats. Then when I got back to the guest house hung out with a Dutch guy that is here for Moi Thai (spelling). It was interesting to hear some about the sport.

An illuminated Wat

Today I wanted to see more of the Wats in the city becuase it is a very historical city, it was the old capital from 1450 to 1747 when the Burmise sacked the city and destroyed most of the Wats and Buddhas (most of the Buddhas are headless). I wasn't sure how to see the city becuase its pretty big, so I was thinking a bike but that didn't happen. I had a Tuk Tuk driver courner me and I got rid of him by getting breakfast at a place. At breakfast I met a nice girl from South Africa and we talked for long enough for the Tuk Tuk driver to leave.

I walked to the train station with her, so she could by a ticket to leave tonight and head north and then we walked around the city. She let me just lead us around to see whatever I thought we could see. First we walked to a Wat that is off the island and has the largest Buddha in Thailand (18 meters tall). It was amazing and there was a ritual occuring in the temple where people throw clothes up to people standing on the Buddha then the clothes are stung together and then then go over the crowd while they are praying. It was a cool sight, I wish I knew more about the meaning behind it.

The 18 mether buddha and the cloth ritual (pictures can't capture it)

Then we took a water taxi back over to the island, and walked over to the historical site of Ayuthaya, getting lunch on the way. We saw three other Wats, one we walked passed, another had a 14 meter tall bronze Buddha, and then next to that was another old Wat. The final one was the coolest. The Wat is completely in ruins except three piller things, very beautiful and awe inpiring to walk around in.

the bronze buddha

The really cool old Wat with the three pillar things

Then we got some beers nearby to wait for the sun to go down so we could see the Wats in the dark all illuminated. We drank in a little local place where the owners were just so happy to have some foreigners hanging out. Then after looking at the Wats we walked back to the guest houses so she could get her bag and catch the train. Now I'm doing this before I get some dinner and hit the hay.

The pillars illuminated

One thing is I am getting a little tired of the solo thing and can't wait to see some friends. Not that I'm not enjoying myself but its a lot of work trying to meet people every day. Today worked out but now she is gone, and I'm alone and going to travel up north tomorrow and have to meet someone new in order to have some company. Maybe I'm just a bit tired because of Bangkok and just need that to wear off. I think I got spoiled in Kanchanaburi because I saw the same people several times so it wasn't so much work everyday just to have some company. I did have a great day with the South African girl, and even got a call from the French girl I met in Phetchaburi just wishing me good travels and saying she is leaving the country tomorrow.

Well I'm heading north tomorrow by bus up to Sukothai, which is the other historical capital and then over to Mae Sot near the Burmise boarder. Peace to all!

Heading to Ayuthaya tomorrow

Last night was an ok night. I couldn't really find anyone to hang out with so I got stuck watching the Blood Diamond movie in a restaurant and had more beer than intended. I really wanted to see that movie because of the Poisonwood Bible book, which is about Africa, that I just finished reading. So when I walked by the restaurant and saw it on I sat down then of course I had to buy something and that turned into a few beers. Then when the movie ended I ran into people I didn't know but have seen around and wanted to meet. I walked to a little park with them, then when they went to sleep, got one more beer and talked to some other travelers. Not a bad night at all.

Today I haven't done much. My dad called me on my cell phone and that was cool. Its good to know people can get ahold of me if they need to. Then it was a bit of a lazy day. In the afternoon I sent some stuff home, like the tent, sleeping bag, and warm clothes. After that I ran into the Austrailian couple I met in Kanchanaburi. We hung out for a few hours and they showed me a nice place off of Khao San called Mama's Place that has 80B dorm rooms and Shima, the Japanese husband, said he has been there several times and really likes it. I might stay there next time I'm back in Bangkok.

Tomorrow its out of this crazy city and up to Ayuthaya. I figured out I can take the river boat and then walk to the train to get there, it should be a mellow traveling day. Tonight I'm going to just hang out some more, probably with the Australian couple, they are really nice. One thing I've realized I haven't said yet on this blog is about the language thing. It seems like everyone speaks english, like its the language of the world or something. Lots of europeans I've met learned english to travel aroung Asia, strange I think. Its good for me because I know the language but it also makes me feel like a spoiled American. Another funny thing is the Obama thing. Most locals when they here me say I'm American go "Yay Obama" and get all happy. Its an interesting thing to happen after the Bush years. It seems like everyone is just so happy to have the change of power, like Obama was elected by the world. Anyway thats all for now, and I took some pictures of the areas I've been hanging out in for you all.

Th Khao San Road

The neighborhood nearby that I like better

The guest house I'm staying at

Saw Chinatown in Bangkok

Last night was mellow. I just walked around with beers I bought at the 7-11. There are 7-11's all over the place and it is pretty well known that they have the cheapest beers, so the thing to do is to buy beers there and drink them on the street, they even open them for you in the store. I met a nice couple that was leaving bangkok that night but we walked around and there were drums on Khao San and all kinds of street performers, quite entertaining. After the couple left I walked around a bit more and then went back to my room.

Today was a very strange day! I started it off fine, I traded one book for another. There aren't give and take bookshelves like in central and south America but there are bookstores all over the place, or street venders with books, so I just traded one book for another, paying a small amount. Then I got my dirty clothes together to have them washed at a little laundry place near the guest house I'm staying at. The next thing I wanted to do was buy a cell phone so I decided to go to Chinatown to buy the phone. I've heard that area has the biggest market and such so I thought it would be a good place to get a phone.

I took the river boat to get to Chinatown, its a really nice way to get around Bangkok. Then when I got off a middle aged Thai guy (Antok) started talking to me a couple blocks off the river. He was really nice and we drank some coffee together at a street vender. He talked to me about Thai politics (which most people won't do, even with the protests in the city) and other stuff so I got a pretty good vibe. He invited me to his house to meet his family and have some lunch and I agreed (which was where it turned strange).

the river and me on the boat.

When we got to his house his family was really nice and we had some lunch. Antok left pretty quickly because he said his grandma needed surgery and in Thailand you have to pay the doctor first, thats what he was doing in Chinatown before he met me. His brother in law was nice but pretty soon he started talking about gambling. I had read in the guidebook about the gambling scam so I started to prepare myself for it. He said he would show me tricks to win at 21. It was really strange, he was showing me tricks and saying I got it and telling me about how to get over on the banker or casino or whatever. I told him I didn't gamble but he just kept going. Then when I supossedly had learned all the tricks he randomly got a call from his japanese banker friend that was just coming over to pick up a vip pass for a cruise ship (he works on a cruise ship in the casino). Then he said great timing we can do these tricks to win money off the japanese guy. I said I wouldn't play with real money and then he tried to give me like 400 us dollars of his money to play with to win money of the japanese guy. I just refused and said that it was a policy of mine never to gamble with real money.

Once I finally got that message accross you would be suprized how fast they got me out of the house. He went outside to give the japanese guy the vip pass (I don't think the guy even exists because I was in a side room and he left to give the pass, then was back so fast, and said the guy was already gone). Then magically Antok was back at the house at that very moment and wanted to take me back to Chinatown. I happily agreed. Antok seemed down, maybe because I didn't go for the scam, or because of his grandma, who knows. I still think Antok is an ok guy, but I don't know about his brother in law.

Antok actually helped me get a cell phone, maybe because he figured he had to do something to get some money out of me. It seemed like a good deal though. He took me to a store and translated for me and helped me choose what plan and whatnot. Then before we split ways he asked for 200B for helping me, I gave it him, he did help me after taking me for a bit of a ride.

I went straight back to the boat to come back to Banglamphu (the neighborhood Khao San is on). I didn't spend much more time in Chinatown but with walking around with Antok I think I saw most of it, and after the strange experience I just wanted to get back to the Khao San area. So, now I'm back and am going to pick up my laundry soon. I was right about people liking it over here better than on Khao San because I've seen some of the backpacker friends I met in Kanchanaburi over here and will probably hang out with them later on tonight. Also I had like 4000B left when I got here yesterday and now have a couple hundred, this city sucks it out of you way worse than the other places I've been. For example people act like a meal for 30-50B is cheap but in other places that was the normal price. And I finally got funny tummy, or Bangkok belly as people here call it, but the charchol pills work really well. Anyway, I have a phone now but don't want to put the number on here because it is so public and anyone who would want to get ahold of me knows my e-mail. So, if you want my number please e-mail me and I'll give it to you.

Back in Bangkok

Today I took the bus from Phetchaburi to Bangkok after a relaxing night last night. Sandrine and I just went to the night market and looked around after I took a mid day nap. We ended up eating at the guest house and then going to bed. She is way to easy to talk to so we talking until late, like the night before. She decided to stay another day in Phetchaburi but I wanted to move on.

I got to bangkok and was able to get a motorbike taxi to Khao San road without getting ripped off! Then I walked straight through Khao San across the street and over to the neighborhood I liked and the guest house I found for 150B a night, and they had a room open. The place is the Sitdhi Guest House and it even has pretty cheap internet! So things are working out and I can appreciate the crazyness of Bangkok more after being in a real Thai city where I was one of a dozen farang.

I do really like the neighborhood, it has cobblestone streats, nice street venders, lots of farang, but not such a party/drunk vibe. I think the backpackers and travelers are attracted to this neighborhood rather than Khao San for the same reasons I am, so the vibe is much better. And, I can appreciate that travelers need a place to come together after getting off a plane or whatever, so I can understand this place. The people watching is different because its all westerners, a suprizing number of westerners, with all different kinds of backgrounds.

I had some lunch at a good street vender and I don't plan to do much else besides walk around and try to meet people. Tomorrow I'm going to try to take care of some stuff and then the next day do some site seeing before I leave for Ayuthaya which is an old historic city that another traveler said they really liked. I plan to see that city and then start moving north and see the northwestern part of Thailand. Also, if you wondering why I spell Thai cities or places different sometimes its not because I'm a bad speller but because they spell them differently, even on official signs. I think this is because they use a different alphabet so when they write stuff in english it isn't always spelled the same. Like the river Kwai was the river Kwai, Kwae, and Kwaye on official signs. So, I'm off to hopefully meet some people and hang out for the night.